Advice for New Tenants

So you now have an allotment and little or no idea of what to do now. Here is a outline of some steps you should take.

Step 1 - Assess your plot and make a plan.
Your plot may already have some structures like a greenhouse, polytunnel, shed etc. If so, you can either plan around the existing structures, or decide to move them to better positions. In this section, it is assumed you have a blank canvas.
You will need to make space for some or all of the following permanent structures:

• A shed to store tools, pots and trays, fertiliser, etc.

• A greenhouse or polytunnel to sow seeds and grow crops like tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, aubergines, etc.

• A cold frame to harden off seedlings.

• A compost heap

• Water barrels or tanks to collect rainwater.

Rainwater is better for plant and soil life, as the chlorine in tapwater will kill beneficial microbes. Collecting it will help reduce the annual water bill for the site. With annual rainfall in Blackburn being 1.3 metres (51"), even a small 1.8m x 1.2m (6' x 4') shed or greenhouse could collect 2800 litres (620 gallons) of water per year, if connected to gutters and barrels/tanks.

As well as permanent structures, you will need to plan for paths and planting beds. The main pathways should be at least 60cm (2') wide to allow space for a wheelbarrow. Beds should ideally be no more than 1.2m (4') wide, so you can reach to the middle from either side for planting, weeding and cropping, without standing on the soil. Beds are either used for annual crops like potatoes, onions, carrots, etc. or for perennial plants like fruit canes and trees, asparagus, artichokes and many herbs.

Take your time with the plan, and don't rush into things - it is far easier to change a drawing than dismantle and move a shed.

Printable Planner with Common Structures

Step 2 - Clear the weeds.
Unfortunately, the whole site has a lot of perennial weeds including: docks, dandelions, bindweed, horsetails (mare's tails), couch grass, nettles and more. Do NOT rotivate the ground, as this will chop up the roots and spread the problem. Docks and dandelions have a long tap-root like a parsnip, and you need to dig out the whole of this or they will simply regrow. Follow the tendrils of bindweed back to the ground, where you will find an extensive tangle of white roots to dig out. Horsetails, couch grass and nettles all grow on a network of underground rhizomes. You need to remove as much of this as possible to prevent the weeds coming back.
If you take over at a time where the weeds are growing strongly, it is probably best to strim the plot first, then cover the ground with weed mat, black plastic or flattened cardboard boxes to exclude the light. This should seriously weaken the plants, and make it much easier to dig out the roots and rhizomes.

Do NOT put any of these weeds in your compost heap. Dry them out, burn them and add the ash to the compost.

Step 3 - Sowing and growing
This topic is far too big to address in a short paragraph. It is recommended that you learn about the plants you want to grow by reading books or watching programs on TV or the internet. However, be wary of advice from internet channels, especially those based in different parts of the world. Soil types, weather conditions and climate vary a lot even within the UK, so plants that thrive on chalky or sandy soils elsewhere in Britain may prove very difficult to grow in the local clay.

My "How to Grow" Section
 

Step 4 - Protecting your plants
This comes in two basic forms - protection from bad weather and protection from pests.

A greenhouse or polytunnel will extend the growing season at both ends, and provide sheltered conditions for raising seedlings to transplant outside. In summer they can be used to grow plants more suited to warmer climates, like tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers etc. However, in hot sunny conditions they can easily overheat, scorching the plants within. Good ventilation is the easiest way to combat this, and leaving the door and windows open, or even removing some of the glass during the summer months will help prevent things overheating. You can also purchase shade netting which cuts down the amount of direct sunlight and keeps things a little cooler.

Cloches can be used over outdoor beds to extend the season and warm up the soil before planting, as well as providing protection from low temperatures, wind and pests for small seedlings.
 

The allotment site is home to many pests which will happily eat seeds, leaves and fruit. These include birds, small mammals and insects, and the easiest way to protect your crops is with some kind of netting. The cheapest is usually green plastic mesh in a diamond pattern which you stretch out. It is difficult to use, and generally only lasts a year before UV from sunlight degrades the plastic.

Fine-gauge scaffold/debris netting or enviromesh may be used to protect crops from insects like carrot fly and "cabbage white" butterflies in addition to birds and mammals. This type of netting is only recommended for use with crops such as onions, carrots and brassicas which do not require pollination.

For fruiting crops, use a wider gauge of mesh which will allow bees and other pollinators through, but still exclude the birds and mammals. Black "pond mesh" is a cheap option which should last several years or you can get more expensive heavy duty types.

Most people on the site will be happy to offer help and advice - don't be afraid to ask.

Projects using cheap and recycled materials to make useful stuff for your plot